If I don't come back, I've moved to PUCON

DAY 12

As I mentioned, we missed our bus from Mendoza to Santiago.  As we had been warned about South Americans’ sense of time (or lack thereof), we were ready for our bus to arrive at any moment.  What we weren’t ready for, however, was South Americans’ lackadaisical sense of location in addition.  So if 9 a.m. is the ETA, it is just that--an estimate. 9:30 is more likely.  Also, if “Platform 17” is printed on your ticket, “Platform 16” is a viable option as well.  Oops!  We caught the next bus out. Lesson learned.

Traversing the Andes:  At first, we thought we could not have chosen a worse day to do this trip.  It was cloudy, raining, and foggy--making it difficult to see the mountains.  Furthermore, our stomachs turned as the driver of our top-heavy double-decker bus rounded narrow switchback turns while simultaneously passing gravel-spitting 18 wheelers and other double-decker buses.  I can only imagine that he was in the front giving each cautious driver on the road the finger as he whizzed past. 

The rain eventually lifted and the fog faded away to reveal that the scenery was incredible! There were odds and ends-- houses, old railway posts, and cows--dotted alongside the road. Other than that, the landscape is untouched.  The mountains became grander with snow speckled atop its highest peaks as we rolled along into Chile.

DAY 13

Pucon:  An 8 hour bus ride from Mendoza to Santiago, a 7 hour layover in Santiago, and another 11 hour bus ride to Pucon really makes a person lose her sense of time.  Although the layover was not fun, we were able to sleep well on the bus ride to Pucon, and boy were we treated by the scenery when we arrived!

As much as mom and I have raved about places thus far, Pucon is BY FAR the best!  We liked it so much that we extended our stay for two more days.  I might just extend it until forever.

There is an active volcano, a crystal-clear lake, and the Andes mountains right outside our window.  Pucon has a classic mountain town look to it that reminds me of Vail in the summertime.  There are 12 major lakes in the Lakes District with numerous others dotting the region, and the volcano--which mom likened to Mt. Fuji in Japan--is in clear view from anywhere in the small town.  Activities here include mountain biking, trekking one of three active volcanoes, canyoning, rafting, kayaking, and many, many more.

Before hitting up the lake and Saturday crafts market, mom and I had the best meal of our lives--smoked salmon with herbs, yogurt with chives, wheat toast biscotti, eggs, red onion, pickled roots, a roasted veggie sandwich, and a local beer.

Afterwards, we hit the black sand beach for a little sunshine.  The lake water is comprised of snow runoff from the mountains, so the water was freezing!  It's the kind that not only wakes you up after you submerge, but also takes your breath away for a few seconds after you come back up.  Very refreshing! 

DAY 14

Lake Caburga to Pucon:  Today, mom and I embarked on quite a trip—a 21 km. mountain bike ride.  We started our trip at another beautiful, crystal-clear lake in the area and made our way to Ojos de Caburgua—a pristine quadruplet of waterfalls that pool into a sparkling river that winds its way down the mountainside.

From then on was the tough part (“from then on” still being about 18 km. or so).  The path was a mix of gravel and dirt winding its way up and down the mountain at steep angles.  The scenery was something out of a storybook.  The weather was perfectly sunny but breezy due to the cool river air that misted upwards alongside the road.  Only occasionally did we see another bike or car pass by.  For the most part, we had all of the scenery to ourselves. 

After a particularly difficult upslope, we were rewarded by a stunning view of the river, my future lake cabin, and a clear view of three active volcanoes in the background. 

After a particularly difficult downslope, mom had a small spill where her tires shot out from under the loose gravel.  After her spill, she just rode up to me and said “take a picture!”.  Tough woman, that one.

Before reaching town, we passed alongside a town of Mapuche—a horse-riding people indigenous to the Andes and southern Chile.  Boy, do they have some good real estate!  I plan on being their neighbor one day.

DAY 15

Los Pozones:  Mom and I took a local bus to Los Pozones, secluded natural hot springs in the mountains.  We spent about 4 hours going from one stone and mountainside enclosed pool to another, then into the bone-chilling river, then back to another hot spring.  It was such an awakening, yet relaxing experience.  We were entirely surrounded by lush green trees, steep mountain slopes, flowers, and the crystal-clear river.

On the way back, our bus broke down.   As we were in a remote area, the next bus didn’t come for another hour or so.  We were so unwound from the hot springs and enjoying the scenic countryside, that we didn’t care.

DAY 16

It was a bit cloudy today, so we decided to nix the sea kayaking idea and just hang out on dry land by the lake.  We rented some beach chairs and kicked back with a good book.  We stayed there from midday to sunset just relaxing. 

DAY 17

Yes, we did eventually leave this little haven, but I promised myself that I will return.

Today, we walked around town picking up fruits, pastries, and other goodies for our trip north.  Reluctantly, we said goodbye to our awesome hosts and caught an overnight bus to Santiago.